Today finds me in a guest house in Satpuli, a small village half way between Devaprayag and the familiar sounding name of Lansdowne, as in Lansdowne Road Stadium in Dublin. This place is named after Lord Landowne, here in the time of British rule. I wonder if the colonial connection is the same as in Ireland?
The last few days have been fun. The time spent with Anand at his kids camp was a good move. The camp was situated on a floodplain next to the River Asan. It consisted of about 15 tents, a cooking and eating area and a ropes course. Oh and not forgetting the full on disco set-up. The setting, on the floodplain was surrounded by mountains on 3 sides and next to the site were a group of nomads on their way from the Kasmir mountains to the lowlands which they do each year with their cattle and goats. It was amazing to get to appreciate these people and a little of how they live. To watch how they tend to the animals and the temporary structures they use for shelter really was an insight.
I really enjoyed my time with Anand. He was really interesting to chat to about religion and belief and also the bar he took my to that night. He promised the greatest bar ever called The Trillion Star which as you can imagine had me very excited. So when we pulled up at a quite lake side and table and chairs were issued from the back of the jeep, it more than lived up to my expectations! Oh yes and I really enjoyed my whisky. Yes it was scottish. McDowells, I believe.
The next day, after breakfast, I was taken into Dehra Dun and I said a regretful goodbye and headed to Rishikesh. Apparently where the Beatles hung out in the 60s. The evening there was an example of the many great experiences that has made India such a rich and worthwhile time for me. After getting a shower, I wandered along the shore of the mighty Ganga River. This broad, fast flowing river has great spirtual significance for Hindus. At a jetty I had to previlage to sit amongst a group of worshippers carrying out their evening devotions. With dusk falling, indivuals would come to the waters edge. Women would bring small jos sticks, light them and place next to the water. Maybe they would set a flower next to this. Then after a short prayer, water would be sprinkled around the ambers and the water would be used to wet the face hands from a round bottomed, copper beaker. Others, such a young men, might come with a container and seem to bless the water by filling the container and emptying it back into the river. A simple but emotive ceremony to observe. Some would don a pale coloured wrap and just jump in! The variation, creativity and individuality was amazing to see.
Spirtiuality rarely seems to be far from the surface here. Whether it is as overt as decribed above or more sublety in roadside gurdwaras, conversations with people or a simple marking on a persons forehead. It all added a richness and depth to everyday life.
From Rishikesh, I took off on what looked on the map, to be a flat cycle to Devaprayag. Both towns being around 400m in altitude. But the map failed to mention a 1000m high climb in the middle! So the first 50km were mighty hard work and just as I was thinking of hailing down one of the passing lorries for a lift, along came a speedy 20km desent into the town. Phew! Following the River Ganga, in it's deep gorge was pleasant enough and the occasional white water rafting group and riverside beach camp was all very interesting.
Today I managed an early start and took a very quite but rocky road through really rural, lowland countryside. It was a pleasure moving from hamlet to hamlet. I stopped at one to get an early lunch. In the small hut, no food was actually ready when I arrived but the kindly old lady insisted that she could sort something out for me. So through our translater, I enjoyed a tasty omlette, some bread, fried tomatoes, and some of what must have been yesterdays dal. All rounded off with a tasty chai. The food was first class but sitting in the hut with locals coming to see what was going on, a clay cooker in the corner fuelled by long logs being fed in as they burned and the cow in the next door shed joining in, it was another of those memorable moments that are too frequent for me to write about.
Tomorrow is Landowne then Jim Corbett National Park. Lions and tigers and bears, oh my. Well there are tigers! Oh and elephants.
Yesterday was spent in Nahan. I was feeling a bit tired. I think it must have been the new found heat and intensity of the sun on the lower foothills. More like toe hills!
This morning though I was up and itching to get at it. Left Nahan feeling energised and after a pleasant down hill I got to enjoy one of the first flat runs of the trip. It felt great. I was able to get into a rytham and with an early start I have made it half way to this resort called Asan Barrage. After some lunch and plenty of liquids a bunch of school kids arrived to water ski. I got talking to their leader, a man called Anand. A real character. He works for the Ministry of Youth Affairs. After some chat and a bit of persaution, I am now to spent the night at the camp he runs and with the kids he is looking after. It's all a bit random and I was torn as I was up for the afternoons 40km cycle to Dehra Dun. But sometimes thing like this come up and I might regret the oppurtunity to spend a night under canvas.
So this post finds me over looking a small water body on a wooden deck enjoying the kids going out on their big waterskis and coming back in to the cheers of thier friends. The shade is very welcome as it's approx 35 degrees. The sounds of water and the relative peace is making for a very relaxing afternoon. According the Anand, I am to put my bike on the bus, have food and join the teenage disco! this evening and in the morning he is taking me to Dehra Dun so I can continue my journey.
When I was planning this trip, months ago,friends would suggest that it was ok to have plans, but things would materialise that would change those plans. Well judging by how things have gone so far, that seems to be the case! A part of me is hesitant to break a nice clear line from one major point to another, but then I know that such offers of generosity and hospitality are an important part of what travelling is all about. That's not just my legs speaking!
Yesterday in Nahan was both useful and an oppurtunity to wander around and appreciate what is a town with a strong respect for it's historical buildings and landmarks. In the evening I enjoyed a peaceful walk up the hill along a huge historic wall that lead me to old colonial style buildings, temples and Gurdwardas all bathed in this illuninating, low evening light.
Just while typing this Anand has returned. He was able to inform me of the relationship of a temple to Hindu worship and a Gurdwara to Sikh worship. He mentioned that both faiths sometimes worship in the same building. an interesting concept for myself, coming from Northern Ireland!
Also in Nahan I managed to get a Indian SIM so I am back on line after being mislead by my mobile company back home. I have a new number and am able to blog remotely. Also posted back home some stuff I felt was not earning it's keep. Also felt it was putting a lot of stress on the bike frame.
So after a couple of days relaxing in Manali I caught bus to Chandigargh. The plan was to head south again and visit my friends again in Kasauli. So after one of those pain type journeys consisting of over night bus journey, stressfull train trip, interesting local bus then bike ride, I made it to Kasuali.
Arriving in the beautiful hills again was worth the trip. A combination of hospitality and the crack with Badael and his family made that trip all worth while. The house, set on the hillside, is just a perfect place to recoupurate after that annoying journey.
I had planned a couple of days off which has now turned into 4. Today a late start meant a 75km dash to the town of Nahan. This was helped by most of it being a desent. Made it here about 6, found a decent hotel and rested. Nahan is a town based around a large grass area for football and cricket with winding streets leading off this. The central area is flanked by prominent interesting buildings and landmarks that make this pleasent town.
I enjoyed my journey very much today. The road which did vary in quality did weave in and out along a ridge providing great variation in prospect with expansive veiws on one side and hints of veiws on the other.
After my break my legs were feeling strong this morning dispite the few black labels I had last night! As the day went on this remained the case. It was just just the climb into the town at the end that remained me of tired legs.
The plan for the next number of days is to head towards the Nepal border. I find this a little daunting as it could take between 10 and 15 days. I will just have to take one day at a time and see how the terrain and moral pans out.
Manali. Been here now for about 3 days just relaxing. The town is out of season, so it's not too busy. This evening I am getting the overnight bus to Chandigargh again, then the train to Kasauli where my cycling began. I wil have a chat with Babal and family about a route to the east towards Nepal.
Bit of a catch up then, on the trip so far.
Since the last post, a few days ago, I made it over the Pass. Very chuffed about that. It makes a nice altitude chart on the sportstracker. After all that IS my motivation!
After the super steep climb was the associated desent. That was fun, if a bit too bumpy in places. I was aiming for Larji but the accomadation was too expensive so I decided to cycle through this massive 3km long tunnel to Aut. I had asked someone about the tunnel and was assured it was lit. The fact it wasn't made the whole experience more exciting, if not a bit surreal. Head torch earned it's keep.
The next day was to be a dash for Manali, to rest. When I awoke that morning there was heavy rain. The first I have seen really. I waited but it did not abate. So I donned waterproof-ish clothes and tried the 70km to my goal. But the rain continued and I was forced to stay the night in Kullu. There the Rock and River Hotel provided me with pleasant views and sounds of the River Beas.
Next day was a bright start but this desented into a very wet morning and afternoon, which made my arrival at the great Pinewood Hotel in Manali all the more welcome.
So after a good nights sleep, today I have breakfasted on my balcony, made it to the internet cafe, enjoyed a beer and generally tried to rest. My legs were not too happy about cycling yesterday!
I was dissapointed to find that an outline plan I had to take a bus to Leh, in the north, will not happen as the roads remain closed due to snow. Tomorrow I will have a think about a route from here, with a few exciting prospects to consider.
I was mistaken to think y
esterday was the payback for that great decent in the morning. That was only a deposit, today was payback time! Setting off from Anni this morning, I knew I had a ascent ahead of me, I even knew it was from 1200m to 2700m, it's just I didn't know what that feels like!
So yes today was a very difficult climb. The bit I disliked the most was that it got steeper and steeper towards the end.
Making it to Kanarg, 7km from the Jalori Pass, I will remember for a long time. It was hard but again I found myself in and moving up through, a delightful series of landscapes that never failed to keep me motivated and uplifted.
On arriving, then proceeding through Kanarg (an easy thing to do by mistake) I found the rest house recommended by Badal. After discussion as to whether I could actually stay without permission, I was allowed a room for the night. The old caretaker, looking after the place, has given me blankets, a small electric fire and he made me a tasty dinner.
Tomorrow, the Jalori Pass, then see how far north I can get.
From Narkanda, at 2700m, I enjoyed the most amazing decent of 35km to the valley town of Luhri at 792m. This was a breath taking experience, from the pine covered peak to a valley covered in eucaleptus.
After some food the pay back kicked in. The climb was tough and along with the addition of heavy rain it could be described as a day of contrasts.
I have enjoiyed perfect weather for cycling since I srarted from Kasauli. It has been warm and fresh. The sun is uplifting and the shade from road side trees welcome. The evenings get cold and allow restful sleep. Humity is non existant with fresh, light winds to wick the sweat!
Tomorrow is the start of a difficult climd towards the Jalori Pass. At 3223m, this will probably be a 2 day affair. If I can get my head around it and settle into the saddle I reckon the might be a sesnse of achievement involved!
So got up and left the Peach Blossom hotel. Made it to Theog with theinformation that ther was a bank that I could attain some cash for the trip north. Alas this wasn't to be. National bank of India in this town do not do any visa tranactions. This was to mean me getting on a bus and 30kms to Shimla. I was a bit disapointed to be leaving my route but in the end it was great to get to visit the lovely town of Shimla. I spent the evening there and really enjoyed the time in this colonial town with a peaceful traffic free mall. Treated myself to a posh restraunt but a dodgy stay at the woodland Hotel. Next morning I was back on the bus to were I left off and enjoyed a good cycle to Karkanda. Enjoyed my stay in the Huta Hotel.
Here is a link to Nokia Sports trackers which I am using as a mileometer (is that a word?), but it also gives a outline of the route I take during each day.
http://sportstracker.nokia.com/nts/login/loginpage.do;jsessionid=3CA86B914713E89ACD858F2E4A34E33C
If you want to check it out, you can log in as me using;
User name - incoming
Password - 1outgoing
Its ok, but there are a few flaws, such as the detail available on google maps and the accuracy of the route.
But its kind of fun!
So in light of yesterdays marathon run, I had it in mind to have an easier cycle today. After taking it easy in the morning and walking to the centre of Chial, a small town with a few shops and a small green type area, I had some omlette and bread, returned to the hotel, checked out and headed out on the bike. The setting of Chail is more impressive than the town, with great pines and ceders clinging on the the steep hills.
It was through this landscape that I was to proceeed for the next 3-4 hrs. The distance travelled over this time was not vast. A combination of tired legs, that gammy knee I sometimes get and not great road conditions made it tricky. The views and serenity between towns meant that it was stilla great days cycling.
So this evening I find myself in Kagu. Again it is a small village, a few shops, a make shift cricket pitch with game in progress, my large slightly, The Shinning, type hotel and a small eating place with a great atmosphere. I spent a good hour or more watching food being perpared, attempting conversation with the men and generally feeling a real sense of being in this great country.
After those in depth and informative chats with my friends in Kasauli a few days ago, I have an outline of plan to make it to Manali in the Kulla Valley. I say outline as I will have to see how things progress. It is a distance of around 250km and is via Narkanda, the Jalori pass (3223m) and Kulla. I was going to allow 5-7 days but I am aware there are hard climbs and a general rise of 1-1.5 thousand metres. When I get there I hope to stay for a few days and take from there.
