29 posts tagged “mobile”
Thats been 10 days now in Vietnam. I still feel like I am adapting to all the changes that has brought. The weather, food, the people, communicating are all making for a whole new experience.
A brief outline of my progress over the last few days.
I made it out to Halong Bay. This UNESCO site, 100km east of Hanoi, was one of the main reasons for me coming to the north of Vietnam. It did not dissapoint. The 100km cycle through the industrial estate that is the road to this geological gem off the coast of Halong city, was woth it. It consists of hundreds of small islands and rock formations that jut out from the sea, forming a dramatic seascape. The islands seems to punchure the sea with their vertical cliff faces rising straight out of the water. It looks like someone has set the sea directly on top of the peaks of some great mountains.
It was a great sight to behold and worth the couple of days detour from Hai Phong. Here I was lucky enough to meet Leelee, who accompanied me to the bay. I was very greatful both for her company but also, having been born in Veitnam, now living in China, she was able to act as interpreter. One of the things I am finding difficult is communicating here. Somehow it was not such a problem in India and Nepal. I have managed to learn a few words but there are lots of intricaies with tone and intination that mean even they are misunderstood. A lot less people here do not speak any english which is something as a lazy western I have come to relie on.
Before I left the UK, Morag gave me a great book called Point It. This has proved invaluable. It contains pictures of lots of things that as a traveller you might want to ask for.
As for the last few days, I made it to Da nang after a couple of days cycling and an over night bus. I was enjoying the topography of the country, being flat, but the road was both busy and not much to look at. This persuaded me to get the over night bus to Hue. It is a great city that happened to have a bi annual cultural festival happening. I was able to visit the mighty Citadel set within massive city walls where different performances of tradtional dance and music took place. The setting was amazing. Lily covered moats, and water gardens with cerimonial halls where the emperor had his residence in the 19th century. In the evening the paths were lit by thousands of tea lights. I saw some comtepory dance, beautiful vietnamesse dance and was treated to that amazing theromin like guitar instrument again that I loved in Hanoi.
I left Hue yesterday morning keen to get cycling again. Having been lead into a false sense of security with the topograpy, I expected the 110km coast trip to be resonable. But a big mountain pass jumped out at me and it was a tough run. But the senery, with views out to the South China Sea and the fact that after lunch I had my first swim there kept me going and I made it to Da nang around 6.
In Da nang today I was tired so didn't do much. Enjoyed the sea view, drunk some of the great coffee and wandered around the city in the evening, It was too warm to go out in the day. The coffee which is served in a simple metal sieve like device that drains into a slowly drips into a glass is very thick and strong. I have it with ice and some condensed milk and its very tasty. Maybe it's one of the french influences from colonial times along with great bread and pasteries, monumental city planning and those beautiful navy and white house number signs.
This evening I am in a posh cafe sitting next to the best fish tank ever. It's got a nemo, and the rest of the crew from that cartoon. I wandered the town earlier and got a hair cut. The cities here seem to do that Spanish thing, with shut up shop in the afternoon and a burst of life as the sun sets. The pavements fill with food stall, with their tiny plastic seats and glass cases full of meats, some veg that you can choose with your rice or noodles. Some of the food I have had so far has been tasty. Noodle soups are there for breakfast lunch and dinner. I would need to eat them in between as they don't seem to keep me full. Some of the food I have not enjoyed so much, with a heavy reliance on hunks of fatty pork and bitter cabbage. I miss the amazing spicyness of India and what it had to offer.
VIVE LA REPUBLICQUE
This is the header strapped across The Kathmandu Post today. Yesterday was a major historic day for the country as the new constitutional assembly voted for the abolition of the 240 year old monarchy and became a Republic.
There were celbrations around the city last night and there is a public holiday today and tomorrow. The Maoists (not moists as noted earlier!) are generally credited with bringing this change about. The unpopularity of the current king due to his expensive lifestyle would have done nothing to avert this situation. The king now has 15 days to vacate the Royal Palace which is then to revert to a museum. It is a day that practically the whole country is celebrating and now there is hard work ahead in agreeing a consitution and president.
Potato Crisped
So the much delayed,enevitable happened. After a few days of great cycling east out of Kathmandu, I decided to get a bus to the end of the road at a town called Jiri. On the bus I put the bike on the roof and squeezed myself onto the packed carriage below. After a five hour journey I retrived my bike to discover that the school kids I had found sitting on the bike on the roof had 'potato crisped' my rear wheel. It was so bad that I was unable to wheel the bike as it jammed against the frame. So half way to Jiri in a town called Charikot I am standing in the dusk thinking is this the end of my cycling on my cycling trip. So in a place with no electricity that evening, meaning no telephones and no mobile signal I just found a hotel and left it to the next day. The morning came and with it a very nervous and stressful attempt to get the wheel fixed in the array of sheds that functioned or not as cycle repair establishments. The first guy tried and seems to be heading the right way but he had an obvious injury to his face and after an hour gave up. The second shed acted as a becon for people in the village who may or may not have had experience with bikes but after me running round the town buying and modifying tools the wheel was in a worse state than the night before. I had no other option than to head back to Kathmandu.
I was dissapointed as the first have of my journey to Jiri had got me excited about the possibility of cycling through more dramatic and pristine surroundings. None the less I really enjoyed the first 5 or so hours of the 9 hr bus journey back to the capital. I was on the roof this time watching and discouraging the masses of travellers from causing more damage whether this be from the school kids or goats that took their places on overcrowded carriage. The journey was long but I enjoyed the feeling of being on top of the bus. It reminded me of my summer times as a kid bringing in the hay on dad's farm. Once a trailer was loaded to capasity with bales, we would climb on board this precarious cargo and enjoy the trill of moving at such a height under trees and the odd telephone wire with the evening drawing in on tired limbs and hay pricked skin. So with one eye on my bike and the other on the occassional low flying tree branch, I made it to Kathmandu later than expected.
I have enjoyed the last couple of unexpected days here. Sorting out the wheel has been successful along with a fewother minior repairs to other equipment. I appreciate that I am in a country that still fixes things! Took the bike out this afternoon and it is running very well. I am much happier now!
My journey through Nepal is almost at an end. I fly on the 31st May to Vietnam. I am suprised at how much I am looking forward to the next leg of my travels. My excitment feels like I am begining my trip without all the worries I had leaving London. So I will have to content myself here for 2 more days and make the most of it.
Oh yes and on the title of potato crisped, the Tatyo crisps I recieved in the post were much more appreciated! Thanks Morag. Is 4 slices of toast and Marmite too much in one sitting¿ Mmmmm!
Nepal is a very beautiful country. The countryside is made up of the flat south towards the border with India. The lowest point here being around 60m and then it rises dramatically and famously to the Himalayas in the north. My experience so far has been concentrated in the central belt with foothills rising from around 500m to around 2500m. These hills are lush green slopes, most being given over to terraced agriculture. Villages maintain a very traditional feel with not the same amount of modern unfinished concrete structures that sat uncomfortably in some Indian settlements. Little things like mud plaster with subtle cream and orange, brown plaster marked with decoration, set the buildings effortlessly and personally with their surroundings.
Today, after managing to get out of Kathmandu, I found myself in such a place. Only 10km out of the capital, high in the valley, you feel a million miles away. It was wet today and this added to the atmosphere in the lush secluded forests I cycled through. It did not help the muddy tracks though, which were just on the cusp of being uncyclable by me and my panniers. Had to get off and push for the first time. So there I admitted it! That feels better. So a really brilliant cycle to call at the oldest Buddhist Temple in Kathmandu and then arrived at the Hotel at the end of the universe. Great place in Nargokot. Hoping for great views of the really big mountains. Weather was not up for it with a even blanket of cloud. Met a cool couple called Max and Sandra. They gave me a squeezy tub of marmite. Genius!
I enjoyed the cup final last night. It's dramatic climax kept me up until 4am in Tom and Jerrys bar. I was acompanied by Tom, I met previously, his friend, Mokia, the husband of Mary from Dubin and a volunteer also from Dublin. It was a fun night with a few large bottles of beer and an entertaining game.
Today I took it easy, not wandering too far from my hotel near Tamell. It is the real touristy centre of the city with buildings consisting mainly of gift shops, bars and hotels. It is the sort of place you would not want to spend loads of time in. The motorbikes, cars and hash sellers that populate the narrow, franetic streets create a claustraphobic feeling that is hard to escape. At the moment there is the sense of the end of the treking season arriving which I would imagine makes the place a bit more bearable than a month ago.
Thamell is a smallish part in the north west of the city and in terms of urban grain is characteristic of other parts of the city with a western twist. These collections of small lanes give way to various spaces containing different temples and more secular aspects of everyday life. Moving east, a 10 min walk takes to a city on a more grand, almost monumental scale. Here, south of the Royal palace, large roads and vast open park areas creates a contrast that makes a wander around a worthwhile undertaking.
My wanderings have happened to coincide with a 2 day traffic strike in protest at the killing of a business man by people closely connected to the new Moist government. I had first gotten wind of this the day before when I cycled into a group of people protesting on the road waving a picture of a man. The 2 day traffic strike I thought was a very bold a decisive act that was a statement that the entire city that it would not tolerate this violence in the new goverment.
Politically the people are waiting to see what the new government coalition, that is struggling to form, will bring. One of the big issues is the iminent eviction of the King from the royal palace. The deadline for this demand, from the Moists, is a few days away. But I would like to say that the city has a peaceful and stable feel to it with everyday life moving along albit at a slower pace without the traffic.
In the my hotel room tonight, surrounded by my 4days inhabitation, there is a family in the hallway packing up their full scale cooking operation used to feed the family. The din of the pots and pans being cleaned and the distance chorus of barking dogs is maling my hope of an early night seem less plausiable. But I will end now and get some sleep. Tomorrow I head for Nagarkot.
I have looked back at the few weeks that I have now been in Nepal and am aware that maybe the amount of cycling I had in mind to do on this trip has not materialised. Well the last few days have done little to remedy this staate of affairs. From the camp site, I got a van back into Kathmandu. 100 nepalise rupees got me a front seat that allowed me to enjoy the last 70km of the valley and avoid what would have been a treacherous climb, acompanied by a continuous black, trail of lorry smoke, never mind the lorries themselves.
The van dropped me off at the point on the ring road nearest to the hotel I had stayed at on my previous time here. I enjoyed the cycle through the city and the staff gave me a warm greeting, remembering the guy with the bike! I like it here and along with enjoying the element of familiarity, it is quiet, has hot water and a peaceful, central courtyard with a strange fish tank surrounded by blue painted rocks.
In the 3 days I have been in the city, I have cycled out to the world heritage town of Bhaktapur, met up with Gavin yesterday, and walked, today to the other side of the river to Patan, another world heritage site. I was well pleased with myself today as I managed to do some drawing. Sitting down to draw a place is a great way to really make you look, really look. I get to laugh with the kids who are very inquisitive, people seem to like that you would take time to draw sorroundings they would be very familiar with. I will try and take more time for this on the rest of my journey.
Today I had planned to head north towards the Tibetian border, but the Champions League Final will be shown on tv and I plan to stay up tonight and watch it. I bumped into Tom who I met the last time here sitting in the same seat, in the same bar. I hope to meet him and watch the game.
Goodness Day 51 already. Where does the time go!
So I managed to escape the charms of Pokhara and I am on my way back to Kathmandu. I took the bus in the opposite direction a few days ago and it did nothing to diminish my want to come back this way. The way Nepal is in terms of roads and the lay of the land means that finding a circular route to cycle is difficult. I love to explore and find new places. This combined with the time and energy of travelling any distance means I do not relish the thought of cycling back the same way. The combination of cycling out of Pokhara and Kathmandu and other means of transport back would seem to be the order of the day, for the next few weeks.
Last night I stayed in a real gem of a place called Bandipur. This ancient village, nestled high in the Mahabharat Range of hills has been preserved and promoted as a tourist distinatinon. The town centred around a traffic free main street is lined with old style buildings containing a good balance of shops and restraunts servicing both the locals and tourists. This morning cycling began with a very exciting 6km steep decent back onto the main road and then another 60km to my present destination in a great camp site by the River Trishull River, about 60km west of Kathmandu.
So it's around 7 in the evening. I have got my tent sorted, and have made it to the other side of the river via a impressive suspension footbridge. I have set down with a beer, a guy is preparing a chicken to my left, a tiny lizard is taken unwarrented interest in my bag on the seat next to me, so really I might just chill here for a bit a soak it all in. No not the beer, the atmosphere!
Well the lighhas just fallen away and a guy, Mark, has just arrived so I will sign out for now. Back to the beer, sorry no I mean the atmosphere. Oh the wee lizard is back!
I am now in what hope is my last hotel in India for a while. The plan is to cross the border tomorow in to Nepal. From there I hope to get an over night bus to Kathmandu. The bus sounds like it might be tough going and could be up to 21 hrs long. Oh boy! I really hope I can get a sleeper. So good bye India, I am sad to leave but very excited about Nepal and the big city of Kathmandu.
Well that is the end of the first month. What a journey that has been. I'm not even sure it would be possible to sum it up at this stage. Maybe to say it has been a very worth while experience with many more ups than downs. (and the cycling has felt like that at times, in terms of hills). Amongst many highlights has been wandering around the late night bazar in Delhi, on my second night in India. Major culture shock. Also I have been embarassed and bowled over by how hospitable and friendly people are. Other moments that will remain with me for a long time are making it to the top of the Jalori Pass, the Trillion Star Bar and meeting and spending time with Badal and his family. On the down side, there have been a few lonley moments in yet another hotel room. I miss my friends and family. But with so much to keep my mind occupied I have realised that I am involved in a very special oppurtunity to experience places, cultures and people I couldn't do at home. The over night bus from Manali to Chandigarth was a low point. On the whole, things have been for me, not too much against me. Cycling from one distination to another has been straight forward, with no getting lost so far. Hotels are readily available in all towns. I think it is pre tourist season which helps. Food as I may have mentioned is amazing and there at the side of the road when required. Along with plenty of places to get bottled water. These things really make a trip like mine so much easier.
As for the last few days they kind of epitomised many of the things I have loved about being here. I made it to Lansdowne climbing to a height of 1650m from Stipuli at 350m. Moving up through the winding road into the much needed cooler altitude, I arrived in the afternoon, rather tired. The town is one of those army hill stations from the colonial era. Now it has been put to good use by the Indian army and is full of charm and layers of interest. I had been trying for the last 5 days to find an ATM and was told there was one here. So with almost no money left to pay for accomadation, I was more than dissapointed to find the server was down. I spent the day trying the machine and at the bank but to no avail. Options were to cycle another 40km to the next town or chance my arm by checking in somewhere and paying in the morning if the ATM machine was working. I opted for the easier, if more risky second option. So after checking in, I tried the machine in the evening with no luck. But acompanied by my distraught face I explained my plight to a man outside, who promptly exchanged $20 I had, to rupees and saved my bacon.
I was also issued with more kindness the next day, both on my way to Corbett National Park and thankfully when I arrived at my choosen distination. At the entrance of the park, a local police station brought me in and I was given lunch and cha. Then on my arrival at Pakro, the forest rest house, noted on the map was derilct. But after sitting with the nearby forest rangers at their station. I was given a bed and more food. The bed I was offered in the station was good but as the evening came to an end, everyone was sleeping outside. So the chance for my first night actually under the stars was to transpire. Another special moment.
Next day after a 6.30 start, I met some insurance guys who issued me with a few whiskys and manged to find me a hotel that no one else thought existed. From there, I started early and done a 95km, flat cycle to Ramangar, where I have taken a day off. 9 days on the trot has called for a chill out day.
Today finds me in a guest house in Satpuli, a small village half way between Devaprayag and the familiar sounding name of Lansdowne, as in Lansdowne Road Stadium in Dublin. This place is named after Lord Landowne, here in the time of British rule. I wonder if the colonial connection is the same as in Ireland?
The last few days have been fun. The time spent with Anand at his kids camp was a good move. The camp was situated on a floodplain next to the River Asan. It consisted of about 15 tents, a cooking and eating area and a ropes course. Oh and not forgetting the full on disco set-up. The setting, on the floodplain was surrounded by mountains on 3 sides and next to the site were a group of nomads on their way from the Kasmir mountains to the lowlands which they do each year with their cattle and goats. It was amazing to get to appreciate these people and a little of how they live. To watch how they tend to the animals and the temporary structures they use for shelter really was an insight.
I really enjoyed my time with Anand. He was really interesting to chat to about religion and belief and also the bar he took my to that night. He promised the greatest bar ever called The Trillion Star which as you can imagine had me very excited. So when we pulled up at a quite lake side and table and chairs were issued from the back of the jeep, it more than lived up to my expectations! Oh yes and I really enjoyed my whisky. Yes it was scottish. McDowells, I believe.
The next day, after breakfast, I was taken into Dehra Dun and I said a regretful goodbye and headed to Rishikesh. Apparently where the Beatles hung out in the 60s. The evening there was an example of the many great experiences that has made India such a rich and worthwhile time for me. After getting a shower, I wandered along the shore of the mighty Ganga River. This broad, fast flowing river has great spirtual significance for Hindus. At a jetty I had to previlage to sit amongst a group of worshippers carrying out their evening devotions. With dusk falling, indivuals would come to the waters edge. Women would bring small jos sticks, light them and place next to the water. Maybe they would set a flower next to this. Then after a short prayer, water would be sprinkled around the ambers and the water would be used to wet the face hands from a round bottomed, copper beaker. Others, such a young men, might come with a container and seem to bless the water by filling the container and emptying it back into the river. A simple but emotive ceremony to observe. Some would don a pale coloured wrap and just jump in! The variation, creativity and individuality was amazing to see.
Spirtiuality rarely seems to be far from the surface here. Whether it is as overt as decribed above or more sublety in roadside gurdwaras, conversations with people or a simple marking on a persons forehead. It all added a richness and depth to everyday life.
From Rishikesh, I took off on what looked on the map, to be a flat cycle to Devaprayag. Both towns being around 400m in altitude. But the map failed to mention a 1000m high climb in the middle! So the first 50km were mighty hard work and just as I was thinking of hailing down one of the passing lorries for a lift, along came a speedy 20km desent into the town. Phew! Following the River Ganga, in it's deep gorge was pleasant enough and the occasional white water rafting group and riverside beach camp was all very interesting.
Today I managed an early start and took a very quite but rocky road through really rural, lowland countryside. It was a pleasure moving from hamlet to hamlet. I stopped at one to get an early lunch. In the small hut, no food was actually ready when I arrived but the kindly old lady insisted that she could sort something out for me. So through our translater, I enjoyed a tasty omlette, some bread, fried tomatoes, and some of what must have been yesterdays dal. All rounded off with a tasty chai. The food was first class but sitting in the hut with locals coming to see what was going on, a clay cooker in the corner fuelled by long logs being fed in as they burned and the cow in the next door shed joining in, it was another of those memorable moments that are too frequent for me to write about.
Tomorrow is Landowne then Jim Corbett National Park. Lions and tigers and bears, oh my. Well there are tigers! Oh and elephants.
